Mealtimes in the Irish Country House

In the early 18^th century, the upper classes had an elaborate breakfast at 9 or 10 am, with dinner at 2 or 3pm, followed by a light supper of cold meat in the evening. As the century progressed, dinner time got later and later so that by the Victorian period it was seldom served before 8 or 9pm. With the late dinner hour, lunch, which at first consisted of little more than a glass of wine and a biscuit, gradually became a more substantial meal of hot and cold dishes. This was followed by the new ritual of taking afternoon tea, where the lady of the house and her guests sipped tea from fine china cups, accompanied by hot teacakes, thin sandwiches, macaroons and an array of other dainties.

Breakfast

Breakfast was a lazy affair in the Irish Country House. The master and mistress of the house were served tea and toast in bed before arising at the leisurely hour of 9 or 10am for breakfast. In the 18^th century, breakfast consisted of water-gruel, whigs (rich bread rolls) or buttered toast and cake, washed down with expensive draughts of tea or coffee. Water gruel (or stirabout) was popular with all social classes, but the well-off might add luxuries such as currants, mace or sugar to make it more palatable, or eat it with a wine sauce and buttered toast. At that time, butter was a luxury enjoyed mostly by the wealthy – in the 18^th century it was more expensive than beef.

By the early 19^th century, breakfast might also include mutton chops, kippers and boiled eggs. Marmalade became popular at this time, as surviving recipes show. A preserve of the rich, marmalade was made by the housekeeper in the stillroom, from oranges imported from Spain or elsewhere (Seville oranges were a favourite due to their bitter flavour and distinctive aroma).

The Victorians liked their food in great quantities and Mrs Beeton considered cold joints, collared and potted meats or fish, mutton chops, bacon, eggs, jam and tea as standard breakfast fare. Kedgeree, a dish of flaked smoked haddock, boiled rice and eggs, was another favourite for breakfast, having become popular among the British Colonials in India. In Ireland, mackerel pate and black pudding may have also graced the sideboard. At that time, it was the fashion for the family to help themselves to breakfast without the aid of servants, although it was the servants, of course, who prepared the meal and cleaned the dishes afterwards.

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Lunch and Afternoon Tea

	With such a spread for breakfast, the Victorian lunch involved a surprising number of courses. It began with a simple entrée, such as salmon mayonnaise or risotto, followed by hot or cold meat dishes, salad, cheese, bread and a dessert of pudding and fruit. Unless the family was entertaining, these dishes were dainty rather than filling. Lunch was served by liveried footmen in the á la Russe style, whereby the different courses were served one after the other, rather than at the same time. When guests were present, the ladies entered the dining room two-by-two, followed by the gentlemen, who knew better than to take a lady’s arm as they did at dinner. The Victorians did not linger long over lunch, and ladies kept their bonnets on at the table, which must have limited their view of the dishes laid before them! When no guests were present it was customary for older children to join their parents at the luncheon table.
A Victorian luncheon table (Mrs Beeton)
	Tea was not served with lunch, being reserved for the ritual of ‘afternoon tea’. This was served by the parlour-maid between 4 and 5pm in the drawing room. The practice of tea drinking had been introduced to Ireland by the mid-17^th century. The first teas (from China) were imported to Ireland from England, as it was not until the 1840s that Bewleys, the first tea blenders in Ireland, set up business. At first, tea was so expensive that tea leaves were reused twice. In wealthy homes, precious tea leaves were locked away in tea caddies until needed. Even by 1850 tea and sugar were still somewhat expensive and were treated with respect, hence the beautifully made tea caddies and fine china cups with which tea was served.
A Victorian teapot
	At afternoon tea, the mistress of the house poured the tea for her guests from a silver teapot into dainty cups of rare porcelain. She did not, however, make the tea, as this was outside the realm of experience of a respectable Victorian lady. Tea cosies were not used in fine society, and should the tea go cold it was considered more polite to ring the bell and order a fresh pot. Tea was served with thin slices of bread and butter, cucumber sandwiches, and macaroons or other small cakes which the ladies could nibble at delicately (as plates were not provided). The mistress and her guests whiled away the late afternoon in this manner, exchanging news and gossip as they sipped and supped in style.
A selection of dainty cakes and pastries suitable for afternoon tea (Mrs Beeton)

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