Setting and Decorating the Victorian Dinner Table
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The Victorian
dinner table was decorated to perfection with stunning white tablecloths,
carefully folded napkins, elaborate floral centrepieces and an excessive
array of cutlery and glasses. Before serving
dinner, the dining-room table was laid with two cloths, a felt cloth
to protect the table from heat and a fresh white damask cloth which
was removed before the dessert course. Table mats, leaving the table
bare, were never used at dinner, although they were acceptable for lunch,
for which the table was kept highly polished. Matching napkins were
carefully folded into decorative designs, with names like ‘Lady Windermere’s
Fan’ or ‘the Bishop’s Mitre’ (see worksheet). In the
centre of the table was a silver épergne, an elaborate centrepiece with a large central basin
and branches supporting candelabra and baskets. Its small silver side-dishes
were filled with chocolates and mints, while the central bowl was filled
with fruit, lavishly arranged in mouth-watering displays. Strawberries
and cherries were piled in huge red pyramids, with the stalks carefully
turned inward, while pineapples and melons were placed on vine leaves
and surrounded by nectarines, grapes and other luscious fruits. |
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A
low-key dinner table for a small dinner (Mrs Beeton) |
Silver candelabra
provided ambient lighting, while stands of flowers, beautifully arranged in
silver bowls and vases, completed the table, along with floral garlands. These
floral arrangements were the work of the head gardener, and gardeners at Emo
such as Mr Ponsford and Mr Ennis were regularly
commended for their skilful displays, even winning prizes for ‘best stand
of flowers for the dinner table’ at county horticultural shows.
As the Victorians
believed that every type of food required a special implement, the dinner table
was a veritable excess of silver cutlery and glasses, all carefully laid in
their correct positions. The first course utensils were placed on the outside
of the setting, so that diners worked their way inward with each course. The
silver was all highly polished and the butler wore cotton gloves when placing
it on the table. Different wine was served with each course, each in different
glasses, and these glasses were arranged in a circle, with a sherry glass for
the soup course, a white wineglass for the fish, a claret or burgundy glass for
the meat course, then a tumbler of water to rinse the palate, and finally a
champagne glass for the pudding. Other glasses for port, brandy and liqueurs
were laid later, when required. Finger bowls, containing a small amount of
water topped with a scented sprig or flower petal, were laid before the dessert
course.
When the table was
ready, name cards were placed in position and menu cards were placed between
diners, so they could see which dishes were coming next - which to choose and
which to pass on, as few diners could manage to eat every course. Before the
diners entered the room, the butler might also scent the air of the dining
room. For this, he used a special instrument with an iron cup on a long handle.
The cup was placed in the fire until red hot, then liquid perfume was poured
into it, and the butler walked around the room, spreading clouds of scented
air. The dining room was now ready for its illustrious guests.
Some
Serve each course at the proper temperature.
Courses
should follow in an unbroken rhythm.
Good service is quiet and unobtrusive, so as not to disturb the conversation at the table.
For the correct order of service, begin with the lady to the right
of the host and continue clockwise.
Food is served from the left side of the guest, drinks from the
right.
A piece of cake or pie should always
be served with the point facing towards the guest.
(Adapted from Dinner is Served. An English Butler’s Guide
to the Art of the Table by Arthur Inch and Arlene Hirst,
2003)